SHOULD I GO HORSEBACK RIDING IN TRINIDAD CUBA?

HORSEBACK RIDING IN TRINIDAD

By Kristin Kallweit, Spanish student, Trinidad, January 2014

Beautiful Trinidad.... when I planned my trip to Cuba to learn Spanish, I knew I wanted to go horseback riding. At home I often don’t have as much time as I would like to, so every time I go on holidays I try to use the opportunity. I have been riding in Australia, New Zealand, Spain and Argentina. I think it´s a wonderful way to explore nature, spend some time outside and visit areas that you can’t often visit with a bus or a car.

I did some research online and found some interesting looking websites but ultimately decided to just book something when I got to Trinidad. Therefore I just asked “my family“ if they knew someone they could recommend.

Gustavo told me he knew a guy who is a trained Veterinarian; something that immediately appealed to me. I had the experience when travelling through Central and South America a few years ago that some people and companies that offer tours are not very well trained, often the horses looked pretty malnourished and had infected hooves. And the good treatment of animals is something that is very important to me. So a trained Vet as a guide is a definite plus. 

I ended up doing 4 tours with Maikel and his colleagues… I got the chance to meet some great people from different countries on the tours and experience the beautiful countryside in and around Trinidad that I would have missed out on otherwise. For example the “Valle de los Ingenios”, rivers and beaches and swimming in natural pools. The horses are well trained and quiet and seem to be used to tourists with different levels of experience. You can trot more slowly if you want to relax and take photos but for the more experienced it’s possible to gallop, too.

The tours vary in length but there is always an opportunity for a lunch break. Usually in restaurants on "farms" where you just sit outside. I have eaten in 3 different places during the tours and they all had vegetarian dishes available, like salads, vegetable soups, pasta, eggs and rice.

Maikel is able to speak English as well, because he spent a few months in Australia. It was easy to talk to him and tell him what I was interested in and plan different routes and tours.

It was a wonderful experience and looking at the photos now makes me want to book my next trip!

Thanks to Kristin for sharing her expereinces in Cuba.

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Experience the Real Cuba offers Casas Particulares in Cuba as well as cultural activities and programs in Cuba supporting local Cuban private businesses.

To find out more about Casas in Cuba and our courses and programs (Spanish lessons, Dance lessons, Music lessons, Photography Experiences, Art & Pottery workshops) check out our website:

www.experiencetherealcuba.com

Horseback Riding - Trinidad, Cuba

Enjoying the countryside - Trinidad, Cuba

Natural Pool - Trinidad, Cuba

Horseback Riding - Trinidad, Cuba

Local beach - Trinidad, Cuba

Sierra Escambray - Trinidad, Cuba

Nature - Trinidad, Cuba

Photos by Kristin Kallweit, January 2014.

IS IT EASY TO FIND VEGETARIAN FOOD IN CUBA?

VEGETARIAN FOOD IN CUBA

Being a vegetarian in Cuba isn’t easy.  The first thing many families in Casas offer you is rice and beans, tostones or chicharitas which are nice but maybe you fancy a bit of variety while visiting Cuba. 

Misleydis has a Casa Particular in Trinidad where many of our students stay when they come to study Spanish or take Salsa, Music, Painting or Pottery lessons in Cuba.  She enjoys cooking and most of all likes to offer delicious meals in her Casa Particular.  Vegetarians that I have introduced to Misle have left her home more than happy with their meals often saying it is the best food they have eaten in the whole of Cuba.....some have even said she should open her own restaurant!  During my last visit to Cuba I decided to speak to Misle to see what she thinks about vegetarian food in Cuba.....

Rena - Have you received many vegetarians in your Casa in Trinidad?

Misle - I can’t tell you how many vegetarians have come to my home but there have been quite a few, some vegetarians eat fish whilst others just eat vegetables, everyone is different.

Rena - Do you like cooking vegetarian food?

Misle - I enjoy cooking and I like inventing new dishes but cooking vegetarian food can be quite a challenge in Cuba.  It is difficult finding ingredients and offering a varied menu, especially if I have Spanish students staying in my Casa for a few weeks.  But I try my best to vary the menu as much as possible.

Rena - What do you think of Vegetarian food in Cuba?

Misle – I’m not a vegetarian and I have never been to a vegetarian restaurant so I can’t really say but I know many people have told me that they usually get rice and beans with salad for dinner at most Casa Particulares.  I want to try and offer people something different so they can see that Cuba isn’t only about rice and beans.

Rena - What is your inspiration?

Misle - I want people to feel happy in my home and to enjoy the meals that I carefully prepare for them.  Even though I have a vegetarian cookbook, I cannot find most of the herbs and spices in Cuba listed in the ingredients so I have to re-invent and experiment with what I can find here in Cuba.  You can mostly find onions, peppers and tomatoes in Cuba but when vegetables like carrots or cabbages are available I try to make the most of them and use them in my dishes as much as possible.

Rena - What are the most popular vegetarian dishes that you have made?

Misle - I have made things like spaghetti with stir fried vegetables, arroz pilaf (pilaf rice) made with butter, onion, sometimes with peanuts,  fresh oregano or basil leaves to add a little extra aroma, all depending on whether I can find them.  I sometimes make something like fried dumplings with vegetables and a boiled egg or Tambor de Papa, a Cuban dish usually made with meat, but I make it with mash potato and vegetables, cream of pumpkin or cream of potato soup.  I have also made my own version of an enchilada, inspired by you when you brought me a bag of flour tortillas from Costa Rica once.  I can’t find tortilla’s in Cuba so I make my own version, I fill them with cooked vegetables, I roll them and sprinkle cheese and a tomato sauce on top.  I know it was a favourite of one of our students, she was studying Spanish in Trinidad and she stayed with us a couple of weeks and she said she liked it very much.

Rena - Do you think people are happy with your food?

Misle - I think they are generally happy with my food, they always give me compliments, at least I hope they like my food.

Rena - Is there any ingredient you wish you could have but can’t get in Cuba?

Misle – That’s a difficult question as we don’t get many foods in Cuba.  We sometimes get aubergine (eggplant) in Cuba but not very often.  I would like to cook with aubergine more.  Or maybe vine leaves, I like it when you make me stuffed vine leaves with rice.  When are you going to make it for me again?

Rena –jijijijij....well first we need the vine leaves, but if we can’t get vine leaves, you know we can make stuffed tomatoes instead, it’s a good dish you can make for vegetarians too.  Are there any vegetarian restaurants in Trinidad?

Misle – Many new restaurants have opened in Trinidad, but there are no vegetarian restaurants in Trinidad. 

Rena – Maybe you should open a vegetarian restaurant in Trinidad?

Misle – Maybe one day I will open a vegetarian restaurant in Trinidad, but for now I welcome anyone who is staying in Trinidad to my Casa and try out one of my vegetarian dishes....even if they are not staying in my casa.  I would be happy to hear from any traveller craving something different.

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Experience the Real Cuba offers Casas Particulares in Cuba as well as cultural activities and programs in Cuba supporting local Cuban private businesses.

To find out more about Casas in Cuba and our courses and programs (Spanish lessons, Dance lessons, Music lessons, Photography Experiences, Art & Pottery workshops) check out our website:

www.experiencetherealcuba.com

Misle & Rena - Trinidad, Cuba

HOW TO GET A CUBAN TOURIST CARD

I have been visiting Cuba regularly since 2003.  Below are some of my experiences of obtaining Cuban Tourist Cards from various countries and the experiences of some of our students / friends that have visited us in Cuba.

CAN ANYONE APPLY FOR A CUBAN TOURIST CARD?

It doesn’t matter where you are from or what passport you have, if you plan to visit Cuba as a Tourist, you will need to get a Cuban Tourist Card / Tourist Visa.  The application process is usually quick and simple.

CAN U.S. CITIZENS BUY A CUBAN TOURIST CARD?

Yes, they can.  Airlines, travel agencies and Cuban Consulates outside of the U.S. will sell the Cuban Tourist Card to any nationality.  If a U.S citizen arrives into Cuba with a Cuban Tourist Card they will not be turned away by the Cuban government; Cuba has no problem allowing U.S. citizens into Cuba. However, according to U.S. law, U.S. citizens cannot visit Cuba simply by obtaining a Cuban Tourist Card.  U.S. citizens need to obtain a special license to visit Cuba or travel with an organisation that has obtained a license to offer educational programs to promote people-to-people contact in Cuba.  All details can be found on the U.S. Department of the Treasury website.

HOW LONG CAN I STAY IN CUBA FOR?

The Cuban Tourist Card allows you to stay in Cuba for 90 days.  If you plan to stay longer than 90 days in Cuba you can extend your Cuban Tourist Card at Immigration in Cuba for another 90 days at a cost of $25.  The maximum length of stay in Cuba with a Tourist Card is 180 days, so you can extend your Cuba Tourist Card twice. 

Cuban Tourist Card

WHERE CAN I BUY A CUBAN TOURIST CARD FROM?

I have bought Cuban Tourist Cards from various countries, either from the Cuban Consulate, at the airport or at a Travel Agency and I’ve never had any problems.  It’s not rocket science, you don’t have to answer a hundred and one questions or prove that you have enough money to fund your trip. It’s purely a bureaucratic process which all of us have to go through in order to visit Cuba as a Tourist. 

CAN I BUY A CUBAN TOURIST CARD FROM THE AIRPORT?

Yes, it is possible to buy a Cuban Tourist Card at many airports, especially if you are flying from Central America or flying with TACA or COPA airlines, as they usually sell the Cuban Tourist Visas at the airport. 

I have bought Cuban Tourist Cards from Gatwick Airport in the U.K., from Juan Santamaría International Airport in Costa Rica and from Cancún International airport in Mexico.

At Gatwick Airport, you can buy a Cuban Tourist Card from Virgin representatives at the Sales / Customer Service Desk.  It costs around £30 GBP, it takes about 5 minutes, no questions asked.

At Juan Santamaría International Airport in Costa Rica, I paid $15 USD for a Cuban Tourist Card when I checked in with TACA airlines.  

At Cancún International airport in Mexico I bought the visa from the MexicanaClick Sales / Customer Service Desk, before checking in, I paid around $15 USD.

I have transited at both Tocumen International Airport in Panama City and at Benito Juárez International Airport in Mexico City and at the boarding gates of both of these airports the airlines made announcements informing passengers that they can buy a Tourist Visa for Cuba at the gate before boarding.  I already had my Tourist Visa on these occasions so I am not sure about the price but I would say it costs around $15-20 USD.

Nevertheless, if you are not travelling from or not taking a connection from one of these airports and you are not sure what to do, I would recommend that you check with the airline you are travelling with to see if they sell the Cuban Tourist Card from your departure airport.

CAN I BUY A CUBAN TOURIST CARD UPON ARRIVAL AT JOSÉ MARTÍ INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT?

A colleague of mine told me that she always buys her Cuban Tourist Card upon arrival at José Martí International Airport in Havana, Cuba.  But to be honest I have never taken the chance, I always make sure I have a Tourist Card before arriving into Cuba.  I have never seen anyone selling Tourist Cards in Cuba and I have never asked anyone at José Martí International Airport if they can be bought.  But according to this Havana Airport website Cuban Tourist Cards can be purchased at immigration.

DO TRAVEL AGENCIES SELL CUBAN TOURIST CARDS?

My only experience of buying a Cuban Tourist Visa at a travel agency is at Agencía Sol y Son in San Jose, Costa Rica.  I was able to go to the travel agency, buy a Tourist Visa for Cuba without having to buy an airline ticket.  It was quick and easy and cost around $20 USD.

In Cancún, Mexico, there are a number of travel agencies offering cheap flight / hotel packages to Cuba which include the Tourist Visa, travel insurance and hotel transfers.

Trailfinders in the UK does have a visa department where you can buy a Tourist Visa for Cuba. The Cuban Tourist Card is £15 GBP, but Trailfinders add a service charge of £50 GBP; the service charge is reduced to £30 GBP if you have booked your trip with Trailfinders, this is based on British Citizen passport holders. 

ARE CUBAN TOURIST CARDS INCLUDED WITH THE AIR TICKET?

No, not necessarily. You should always check this out with the airline when buying your ticket. I understand that some holiday companies that offer package deals to Cuba include the Cuban Tourist Card, but if you are like me and want to buy just a flight to Cuba you will probably have to buy your Cuban Tourist Card separately. 

One of our students from the U.K. booked her ticket to Cuba with Trailfinders in the U.K.  Her flight was with Air Canada via Toronto, the Tourist Visa was included in the price of her ticket and it was given to her on her connecting flight from Canada to Cuba.  In fact, many of our Canadian students have confirmed that their Cuban Tourist Card was included in the price of their air ticket and similarly it was given to them on board the plane.  

Hence, the following airlines travel between Canada and Cuba and include the price of the Tourist Card ($16 CAD) within the taxes, fees and surcharges section:

• Sunwing

• Westjet

• Air Canada

• Canjet

CAN I GET MY CUBAN TOURIST CARD FROM THE CUBAN CONSULATE?

It is possible to visit any Cuban Consulate around the world and obtain a Cuban Tourist Card on the same day. I have been to the Cuban Consulate in Nicaragua and Uruguay with my passport, ticket confirmation and travel insurance details and obtained a Tourist Card for around $20 USD within around 15-20 minutes.

I have never applied for the Cuban Tourist Card in person at the Cuban Consulate in London; I have always preferred to apply for it by post.  The last time I got a Cuban Tourist Card from the Cuban Consulate in the UK was in 2006.  It was simple, I printed the online application form, I sent them a cheque, a photocopy of my passport, a stamped addressed envelope and I received the Cuban Tourist Card through the post within a couple of days. Update in 2022, you can now apply for the Cuba Tourist Card online.

The price of a Cuban Tourist Card from the Cuban Consulate in the U.K. is £27 GBP plus postage.

A couple of our students from Germany have confirmed that they were able to obtain their Cuban Tourist Card in person at the Cuban Consulate in Berlin, Germany.  

“It was super easy to get the Visa. I just went to the Cuban Consulate in Berlin with my passport plus a copy of my passport, a declaration from the Insurance Company that I have Health Insurance Coverage and I had to fill out a form. I think it cost about 25 Euros. Had to wait for 20-30 minutes and I got the Visa.”

You can also apply for the Tourist Card from the Cuban Consulate in Germany by post.

A couple of friends of mine from Australia got their Cuban Tourist Card from the Cuban Consulate in Sydney, Australia and paid around $110 AUS!!!!!  Frankly, I was shocked that they had to pay that much.  Before going to Cuba they had been in London and could have got it there for around £15-35 GBP.  Their flight from London was via Venezuela and they were selling it at the boarding gate for around $15 USD.  So if you are from Australia and are planning to go to Cuba, you are more than likely going to fly via another country so I would try to find out if you can buy the Cuban Tourist Card while in Transit.

CAN I BUY A CUBAN TOURIST CARD ONLINE? 

A couple of our students from the U.K. have bought their Tourist Visa online with VisaCuba. They told me that it was fairly safe and easy, it was delivered by royal mail and it cost around £15 GBP plus a £10 GBP service charge.

WHAT’S YOUR EXPERIENCE?

If you want to share your experience of buying a Cuban Tourist Card, then please feel free to email me at experiencetherealcuba@gmail.com and I will update my post.  

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Experience the Real Cuba offers Casas Particulares in Cuba as well as cultural activities and programs in Cuba supporting local Cuban private businesses.

To find out more about Casas in Cuba and our courses and programs (Spanish lessons, Dance lessons, Music lessons, Photography Experiences, Art & Pottery workshops) check out our website:

www.experiencetherealcuba.com

Havana Balconies

Habana Libre Hotel

Plaza de la Dignidad

IS TRINIDAD CUBA A GOOD PLACE TO LEARN SPANISH?

MY VISIT TO CUBA

Hola Rena, Misleidys y Gustavo

I can’t thank you enough for arranging my visit to Cuba and making my stay there an absolute joy.

Misleidys and Gustavo are spectacular hosts. The whole family welcomed me into their lives and made me feel at home right away. Misleidys is a marvelous cook and Gustavo is the master fixer of all things – including my bicycle. Our many conversations about life in Cuba offered a priceless glimpse into this beautiful and complex country – “es complicado”. 

My three weeks of Spanish classes with Juani were wonderful. She is a great, patient teacher, and is very happy to share her wealth of experience with her students. 

Trinidad is a great place to kick back and spend some time. The town is big enough to keep you entertained with all the arts and cultural activities, but small enough to be very safe and welcoming. The setting is spectacular – close to both the beach and the mountains.

I can’t recommend this experience any more highly. You will fall in love with this family and with Cuba. I can’t wait to go back.

¡Te extraño mucho!

Thanks very much to Barbara from Canada for her wonderful review and pictures of the Casa in Trinidad.

Casa in Trinidad, Cuba

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Experience the Real Cuba offers Casas Particulares in Cuba as well as cultural activities and programs in Cuba supporting local Cuban private businesses.

To find out more about Casas in Cuba and our courses and programs (Spanish lessons, Dance lessons, Music lessons, Photography Experiences, Art & Pottery workshops) check out our website:

www.experiencetherealcuba.com

FELIZ NAVIDAD 2013

Experience The Real Cuba

Felices Fiestas to everyone.  Wishing you all the best for 2014!

9 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT CUBA AND MONEY EXCHANGE

SHOULD I TAKE CASH OR CREDIT CARDS TO CUBA?

If you are planning a trip to Cuba and you are confused about what you should or shouldn´t bring to Cuba with regards to currency and credit cards, then my advice would be to take a step back and think about what you would feel most comfortable with.  Personally, I’m quite happy to travel with cash only, and take a credit card in case of an emergency, but not everyone feels the same.

1. What is the currency of Cuba?
   
   
   There are 2 currencies in Cuba; the Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC) and the Cuban Peso (CUP). The difference in value is around 1:24.  In order to avoid an expensive mistake, make sure you know what the CUC and the CUP coins and notes look like and learn how to differentiate between them.
   
   
2. Which currency can I use as a tourist in Cuba?
   
   
   You will use the CUC to pay for most things i.e. Casas, hotels, taxis, restaurants, bars, souvenir shopping, transport, tours etc.  The CUP is the weaker currency.  Most Cubans who have government jobs are paid with the CUP.  It is not always obvious when you can use the CUP; if you are unsure then speak with your Casa.  You can buy CUP at the CADECA or by receiving change from street vendors when paying with CUC. Generally there are fewer opportunities for you to pay for things with the CUP but it is possible to buy things from peso shops, fruit & veg on the streets and markets, eat at some restaurants and buy sandwiches and other food from street vendors.
   
   
3. Can I buy CUC from my home country?
   
   
   No, it is not possible to buy CUC outside of Cuba, you will have to buy it at the airport upon arrival at a CADECA exchange bureau or by withdrawing money from an ATM. Check out my "10 Tips About Buying Cuban Currency Before you Travel to Cuba".
   
   
4. Which currency should I bring to Cuba?
   
   
   Well that depends on where you live and which currencies you have access to.  Whatever currency you bring you will have to exchange it into CUC, so check out the latest exchange rates in Cuba before you travel so you can make an informed choice.  When you are checking out the exchange rates, remember to look at the column that says ‘compra’, because you want to buy CUC and if you are looking to buy using GBP or Euros then multiply instead of divide the rate shown. 
   
   
   Being originally from the UK, I have always taken GBP and I’ve noticed over the years that you get more for your money when you exchange GBP. But now that I’m no longer based in the UK it’s not always possible to buy GBP so my second choice of currency is the Euro.  Canadian Dollars are also a good currency to take.  Whilst other currencies are accepted, they are often weaker so you should check out what is best for you.  I would not advise taking US Dollars as you will lose 10% in commission.
   
   
5. Is it safe to carry lots of cash in Cuba?
   
   
   The first time I went to Cuba I didn’t know what to expect so I was super cautious and I took traveller’s cheques, cash and a credit card.  But since then I have felt comfortable and safe carrying cash in Cuba. Luckily for me, I´ve never had any problems, I usually exchange enough money at the CADECA at the airport to see me through at least a few days in Havana and then when I get to Trinidad I tend to exchange enough money to last me for the rest of my stay in Cuba.  I prefer exchanging the bulk of my money at the bank in Trinidad as it is a relaxed town and you tend to get served quickly; they can tell you are a tourist and usually deal with you straight away.   When I get to the Casa I usually lock my money in my suitcase or I sometimes carry a Safepac, where I keep my money and passport.  In any case, I find that staying in a Casa is safe, I have never had money go missing from my room and I don’t tend to carry lots of money around with me on the streets, I just take what I need and leave the rest behind at the casa.
   
   
6. Where is the best place to exchange money in Cuba?
   
   
   The best place for me to exchange money is the place that has the smallest queue.  It doesn’t really make a difference if you exchange money at the bank or at the CADECA, there is very little difference in the exchange rate, so there is no point in wasting your day trying to get the best rate, just do it where it is most convenient for you.  The only places I tend to avoid, if possible, are the hotels, as I find that their rates are lower than the bank or CADECA.  But if this is your only option then exchange what you need at the hotel until you can find a CADECA or a bank.
   
   
7. Can I use Credit Cards in Cuba?
   
   
   Many UK / European credit cards affiliated to US banks are still not accepted in Cuba i.e. Citi Bank, Capital One, Maestro, MBNA, AMX, any Mastercard from a Canadian Credit Union, Diners, Egg, Santander/RBS, Marks & Spenser, Alliance & Leicester, etc.  So you should contact your credit card supplier to confirm whether their credit cards are accepted in Cuba and to confirm what charges they will apply if used in Cuba.
   
   
   The following UK / European global debit and credit cards can be used in Cuba; Barclays, Lloyds TSB, Nationwide, Post Office, Yorkshire, Tesco, HSBC, Halifax, Natwest, Starling, Monzo.
   
   
   If you are traveling from Canada you are able to use credit cards from the following credit card companies; Royal Bank, TD / Canada Trust, Bank of Montreal, Bank of Nova Scotia, Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce, PC Financial and Canadian Tire mastercard, as well as Quebec’s National Bank mastercard and Desjardins visa.
   
   
8. Can I use ATM machines in Cuba?
   
   
   Don’t expect to find ATM machines on every street corner in Cuba.  Cuba is not like back at home. Off course, you can find ATMs but they are few and far between, especially outside of Havana, so I wouldn’t rely on just my credit card when travelling around Cuba.  If you do want to take your credit card with you, I would suggest that you withdraw money when you find an ATM, do not leave it until the last minute as you may not be able to find one when you desperately want one.  Also it might be better to take out large sums of money each time you make a withdrawal rather than taking out small amounts every couple of days; to save you money on the transaction charges from your credit card provider.  
   
   
   Hence, if your credit card is accepted in Cuba, you should be able to use your credit card to withdraw money from an ATM machine in Cuba.  Most reports I’ve read on the lonely planet forum have been good, it appears that most people have been able to make withdrawals, unless the machine is out of money.  In any case, you should check with your credit card provider before you travel to see if it is accepted in Cuba and to find out how much their transaction fees are.  If you experience problems with using an ATM machine in Cuba, then your other option would be to go inside the bank and ask them for a cash advance.
   
   
9. Where can I find more information about Cuba and money exchange?
   
   
   Check out the following article on the Lonely Planet forum.

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Experience the Real Cuba offers Casas Particulares in Cuba as well as cultural activities and programs in Cuba supporting local Cuban private businesses.

To find out more about Casas in Cuba and our courses and programs (Spanish lessons, Dance lessons, Music lessons, Photography Experiences, Art & Pottery workshops) check out our website:

www.experiencetherealcuba.com

CADECA Havana

Queuing up at CADECA

Street Vendors Havana

Paying with CUP in Havana

Eating Ice-Cream at Coppelia, Havana

8 TIPS - DRIVING IN CUBA

After spending 1 month in Trinidad, learning Spanish, I went back to Havana to meet a friend from London and one of the items on her list of ‘things to do in Cuba’ was to hire an old Cuban car; a Ford or a Chevrolet dating back to 1959.  She thought it would be cool to drive ourselves around Cuba!  Well I could just imagine what my family in Trinidad would say, ‘estás loca?’

She had read in the Lonely Planet that you could hire an old Cuban car, but in fact they were referring to the ‘Grancar’.  We soon discovered that these cars weren’t for hire for us to drive, neither within Havana and certainly not to take with us on the road on our great Cuban adventure. So we headed towards the Hotel Parque Central, we paid 30 CUC for 1 hour and we sat back and enjoyed the experience of being in such a wonderfully maintained old car whilst seeing another side of Havana.  The car was immaculate and sparkled inside and out, the owner very proud of how he had managed to carefully maintain such a beautiful car. 

A couple of days later we hired a car.  Our plan was to go to Viñales then onto Maria de La Gorda, Soroa, Trinidad, Camaguey, Santa Clara, Caibarien, Cayo Santa Maria and back to Havana in about 10 days.  We felt so excited to be leaving Havana, driving down the Malecon in our little hire car.  We were heading towards the Autopista Este-Oeste for Viñales, however two hours later, instead of being close to arriving into Viñales we were still driving around the outskirts of Havana.  The last road sign we had seen for the motorway was way back at the Plaza de Independencia.  We stopped a couple of times to ask people for directions, but the directions never lead us to the motorway and we could not even begin to figure out where we were on the map. 

Finally by pure luck, we arrived onto the motorway, only we had no idea whether we were heading back to Havana or towards Viñales.  We drove in one direction, but since there were no signs we soon got nervous, thinking we were going back to Havana and there was no way we wanted to go back to Havana after spending 2 hours trying to get out.  So we decided to get off the next junction and try getting back onto the motorway going in the opposite direction.  The only thing was the junctions we came across seemed to head into the unknown distance; there was no evidence of a road crossing over or under the motorway.  The motorway consisted of 3 lanes in each direction but there wasn’t a barrier in the middle of the motorway; just a grassy causeway.  We had laughed when we had seen other cars crossing the middle of the motorway but now it seemed like our only option. So like naughty school girls we thought we would ‘break the rules’ and we carefully drove across the middle of the causeway and onto the other side.  ‘Did anyone see us?’  Who cares, we are in Cuba and anything seems to go!

Even though we had crossed over the motorway we were still in doubt as to whether we were going towards Viñales.  We had passed a police control point but it was on the other side, so we drove a safe distance away from the police, crossed the motorway again (we were experts now) and we drove back to the control point.  Mr Policeman was friendly enough and informed us that Viñales was in fact in the opposite direction.  I asked politely if it was ok to cross the motorway and he told me to go ahead!  So what should have been an easy 2.5 hour drive to Viñales ended up being an adventurous 4 hours!

That was the first of many adventures whilst driving through Cuba, but generally some of the things you need to consider when driving in Cuba are:

1. Having a map does not necessarily always help when you are lost.  We could never identify where we were on the map.  For example the map did not help us when we wanted to take the exit off the motorway to go to the Yumuri bridge when we were driving back to Havana from Caibarien.
   
   
2. There are no or few road signs.  We often had to take chances and hope for the best especially when having to make quick decisions as to which way to go.
   
   
3. Things take longer in Cuba.  Journeys always took longer than expected because we either kept getting lost and going around in circles or the distance was longer than we expected.   This often meant that we sometimes didn’t do everything we hoped to do as we never made it.
   
   
4. You can't rely on local directions.  Asking for directions from people on the street was fun as the Cubans we met were very friendly and seemed quite helpful, but in all honesty I did question whether they really had any idea what they were talking about.
   
   
5. Having enough petrol is a must.  Fill up before you start a journey or stop to fill up when you do actually see a petrol station as there is no guarantee you will find one during your journey.  The biggest scare for us was realising we didn’t have enough petrol to get back to Havana.  It became obvious to us that we weren’t going to find the Yumuri bridge, we were driving around in circles in a rural area so we got back onto the motorway hoping to find a petrol station along the way.  We came across a restaurant first so we stopped and asked and luckily for once we got some reliable directions from someone and they directed us to a small town off the motorway and we were able to fill up before getting to Havana!
   
   
6. Driving in Cuba is relatively easy and safe.  We found it easy as there was little traffic, but we had to dodge the pot holes, the people walking on the motorway or waving you down with money in their hand, cyclists, people on horses, tractors, cattle etc. 
   
   
7. Driving in Cuba at night can be tricky.  We did't find it so easy purely because of the unusual traffic we came across.  I found myself tensing up as visibility was difficult, you only have your car lights to rely on, as you often find yourself on roads with no lights or they are very poorly lit.  We came across cars, motorbikes, cyclists with no lights.  People walking or riding horses wearing dark clothing, they do not have bright yellow arm bands or tops to help spot them on the dark roads.  So you do have to concentrate and drive slow when driving at night in Cuba, which can be exhausting.
   
8. Hiring an old Cuban car can be a challenge.  Thinking about it now, I think our original idea to drive an old car in Cuba was a bit optimistic.  We had no idea of the legal implications at that time, neither of the practicalities i.e. how to handle the gear controls.  We wouldn’t have known what to do if we broke down or if we had a punctured tire, as it certainly did happen to us in Piñar del Rio.

I suppose one thing I did learn from our little adventure is, never assume anything and expect the unexpected!

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Experience the Real Cuba offers Casas Particulares in Cuba as well as cultural activities and programs in Cuba supporting local Cuban private businesses.

To find out more about Casas in Cuba and our courses and programs (Spanish lessons, Dance lessons, Music lessons, Photography Experiences, Art & Pottery workshops) check out our website:

www.experiencetherealcuba.com

Cruzing Cuba

Driving in Cuba

Grancar Cuba

Old Car in Cuba