CUBAN VOICES

I like my town it´s quiet and smells good. In my yard I can listen to the birds singing and the sound of the wind rustling through the leaves of the trees, and if I try a little, I can hear the waves of the ocean in the distance.  Here I have peace and my children are happy, they are not aware of the economic situation that we have faced for a long time and, like throughout the world,that which has got worse in recent years.  I do not know what to think,I had high hopes, but now I am certain that nothing will change for Cubans who want to see the prosperity of our people.

From my point of view, the only thing the the new changes have achieved is the so called law of elasticity, where with some effort you can make some progress, stretching a a little, but then the execissive taxes only end up making you step backwards two-fold.  Leave this country??? No way!! Those who leave, are neither from there, nor here, a few forget their roots and others can´t stop thinking about them. In the end they will always be immigrants.  It would be perfect to have the freedom to travel, enter the Internet, make plans for the future, it's a shame that "paradise" for foreigners, is the cage for Cubans which I fear, one day will break.

Anonymous

Me gusta mi pueblo, es tranquilo y huele muy bien. En mi patio puedo escuchar el canto de los pájaros y el sonido que hacen los árboles con el viento y si me esfuerzo un poco, podría escuchar el mar. Aquí tengo paz y mis hijos son felices, los pequeños no tienen conciencia de la situación económica que afrontamos hace ya mucho tiempo y que se agravó en estos últimos años, como en todo el mundo. No se que pensar, tuve muchas esperanzas, pero ahora tengo la certeza que nada cambiará para los cubanos que deseamos ver la prosperidad de nuestra gente.

Desde mi punto de vista, con los nuevos cambios, solo logramos la (ley del elástico), puedes avanzar con esfuerzo, estirando un poco, pero luego retrocedes el doble, con los impuestos tan excesivos. ¿Dejar este país??? ¡Ni pensarlo!!!! Los que se van, no son ni de allá, ni de aquí, unos cuantos olvidan sus raíces y otros no dejan de pensar en ellas. Al final serán siempre emigrantes. Sería perfecto tener la libertad de viajar, de entrar al Internet, de poder hacer planes para el futuro, es una pena que “el paraíso” para extranjeros, sea la jaula de los cubanos. Que TEMO, un día se romperá.

Anonimo

CANCHANCHARA BAR - TRINIDAD, CUBA

JUMPING WATERFALLS IN TRINIDAD, CUBA

Feeling hot in the city.  Get out of Trinidad for the day and enjoy the refreshing natural waterfalls that can be found around Trinidad in Cuba.

Falling for Cuba -- National Geographic Traveler

Falling for Cuba -- National Geographic Traveler

An article about el sabor de Cuba.

IMMIGRATION CUBICLES IN CUBA

Do I have to enter a cubicle at Immigration?

The immigration process in Cuba can be long and tiresome, it really depends on how many planes have landed at the same time or how many passengers there are on your plane.  

On one occasion I arrived from San Jose, Costa Rica, a flight of only a couple of hours, which for me is a dream, as from London it’s usually at least a 9 hour flight!  It was only a small plane compared to the ones that come from London, so there were fewer passengers and I sailed through customs.  I couldn’t believe it when I arrived into the immigration hall, there were no queues!  I hesitated for a second, I thought maybe the cubicles were closed, but one of the Officers assured me to just take my pick and approach any of the cubicles.

I was out of Jose Martí International Airport, Havana, in record time, about 20 minutes.  I must admit I was so pleased with myself that day.  I even considered moving to Costa Rica permanently so I could be that much closer to Cuba.  

On the other hand, I have also arrived at Havana International Airport, after a long and tiring flight, only to be faced with around 20 queues, about 15-20 people long, leading to one of those daunting army green cubicles.  All you can see is a serious looking Immigration Officer sitting inside the cubicle, examining passports and tourist cards.  Each person, relieved it’s finally their turn, but also tired from having to wait for so long, stands there nervously, waiting to be let into Cuba.  

Whilst in the queue you wonder to yourself, ‘what questions will they ask me?’, ‘will they know this is my 8th time visiting Cuba?’, ‘what is taking so bloody long?’, ‘does their system register how many times I’ve visited Cuba and for how long I’ve stayed each time?’.  I somehow doubt it, I don’t think such a sophisticated system exists in Cuba.  But who knows, maybe one day they will surprise me!

You can watch people, with sweaty patches on their back, holding layers of clothing they have had to take off as there is no air-conditioning (or if there is it’s not working very well), looking into the eye monitor when prompted, answering questions politely and finally you hear the spine-chilling buzzer.  A locked door is released and you can see them struggling to push then pull the heavy door open, wondering what will happen next.   They are probably thinking ‘can I finally set foot into Cuba?’, ‘what is waiting for me on the other side?’.  Don’t worry, it’s only Customs and the luggage hall.


So as you can see, you don’t have to step into the cubicle, the immigration process in Cuba is fairly public, as with most countries.  All eyes are on you as everyone behind you is hoping for things to move a little faster, so they can get to the front of the queue and start their holiday in Cuba.


As for questions, sometimes I have stepped up to the cubicle hoping to have a friendly conversation with the Immigration Officer, but then they have looked at me like I am crazy without saying a word and other times they have been quite pleasant.  I have been asked simple questions like, ‘is this your first time in Cuba?’, ‘Do you like Cuba?’, ‘One month is a long time, do you have friends in Cuba?’, but nothing more serious than that.


I have never been asked about money or asked to open my luggage.  I have never been asked to give specific details of my trip, like where I will be staying or what activities I will be involved with and I have never had to show any documentation of Hotel or Casa reservations.  I have sneaked in 2 laptops into Cuba in my hand luggage.  I have entered into Cuba with a suitcase full of toiletries, clothes, kitchen utensils and have left with an empty suitcase.  


You do hear scary stories about Cuban immigration, but I have visited at least 12 times and I have never had any issues.  I have gone to Cuba for 10 days, 2 weeks, 1 month, 2 months and I’ve sailed through immigration without a hitch and I hope it continues that way.  

If you are planning a trip to Cuba, just be prepared.  Don’t worry about the immigration process so much.  You don’t have to have a set itinerary and explain your every move.  They are not likely to ask, but if they do just keep it simple.  I wouldn’t worry about having printouts or documents confirming Casa reservations or Hotels.  Just relax and make sure you have the most important documents handy; a valid passport, a tourist card, proof of medical / travel insurance, but most of all, smile and learn to be patient.  

Queuing On The Streets of Cuba

Queuing at CADECA in Cuba

EATING OUT WITH THE FAMILY

In any other country you take it for granted that going out for dinner at a restaurant is a promising idea when visiting family & friends.  After spending most nights, a slave to the kitchen, cooking not only for her family but also for the many tourists that are welcomed into the family home, who wouldn’t want to take a break and spend a rare evening out at a restaurant.

Off course as with everything in Cuba, it’s complicated.  How can eating out be so complicated?  Well, most restaurants in Trinidad are in hard currency, prices are in Cuban Convertible Pesos (CUC); most families in Cuba cannot afford these prices. 

Hitching a ride in Cuba

The couple of restaurants that do accept Cuban Pesos (CUP) are out of town, so you need a car to get there or hitch-hike.  Luckily for us my family have a tiny green limozini, which is like a tardis; we have managed to squeeze the whole family into the back seat many a time, sometimes getting amazed looks from other tourists. 

But travelling with the family in their car is complicated in itself and risky, as they do not have permission to have me in their car.  But I’m family now, well we consider each other as family, but officially I’m still a tourist, I’m not Cuban.  For me this is a hard pill to swallow, in my eyes I’m no longer a tourist.  Over the last few years I have probably spent more time visiting my family in Cuba than my family in London.  I feel as close to my Cuban family as I do with my family in London.  In fact, when I’m in Cuba I feel like I belong, maybe I was Cuban in another life!  Doesn’t that count?  Why can’t I go to a restaurant with my Cuban family without it being risky or complicated?  ‘Eso es Cuba’ or ‘This is Cuba’, is the only reply I get.

Then there’s the fear that the waiters will spot me a mile off as being a tourist, any excuse to charge us in CUC prices instead of CUP.  Paying in CUC, for the family, would be an absolute horror, and they would die in shame if I offered to pay for them.  So the first time we ventured out to a Peso restaurant, I was ordered to remain silent.  My accent was not quite Cuban yet (and I’m afraid to say, still isn’t). 

Since then we have become semi-regulars at another Peso restaurant out of town.  My friend’s husband knows the waiter there; it’s always good to know the right people in Cuba.  Always the joker, he walks into the restaurant, and instead of making our entrance as conspicuous as possible, he announces for everyone to hear that I’m his cousin from Sancti Spíritus, ‘ella es bandolera....loca’.  He loves to claim that I’m some crazy delinquent from another city in Cuba, which explains for my strange Spanish accent.  He is well known in Trinidad, everyone knows he’s a prankster and even though they know full well that I’m not from Cuba, they usually allow us to dine in peace without the fear of paying in CUC.

In fact, I often run into the waiter in town when I’m in Cuba.  The family say he has a soft spot for me, but then in Cuba I am irresistible!  He always asks me ‘When are you coming to the restaurant?’ or ‘When are we going to go out dancing?’.  So you can imagine our disappointment when the last time we decided to eat out at the restaurant, they decided that I had to pay in CUC.  We were a larger group this time with 2 other ‘tourists’ with us, 1 of which was married to a Cuban.  Maybe we were pushing our luck that time.  They insisted that ‘we’, meaning the ‘tourists’ pay in CUC.   I was just glad that the family could pay in CUP, but they felt bad for me and vowed never to return again!  That can’t be easy, 1 less affordable option for them.

POTTERY IN CUBA

At EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA we can organise pottery workshops with one of Trinidad’s most renowned and talented families.  The family have maintained a tradition of pottery over many years and have passed down their secrets from one generation to another, working with clay on the wheel.

Their dedication and talent has received much attention over the last 60 years.  Not only do they have a successful workshop visited by many people wanting to purchase their items, they have also received many awards at Havana’s Feria Internacional de Arte (FIART).  In 2007, UNESCO awarded the family with a special prize in honour of their special family tradition; the master craftsman.

   

They have given courses in ceramics both in Cuba and abroad and they also have developed workshops aimed at local school children.  If you have an interest in taking part in a ceramics workshop, learning about the basics of ceramics, how to create your own pieces, contact us at EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA.

CHRISTMAS IN CUBA

On the menu in Cuba

Have you ever heard a pig squeal?  With a bag over it’s head and carried out of the home into the unknown, the pig will kick and struggle and you can hear it’s cry sounding all around the neighbourhood.  The first time I heard it, I thought, ‘what the hell is that?’, but now the sound has become familiar and accepted, it’s a sign of a Cuban celebration; a birthday, Christmas, New Year.  

All year round Cubans will collect their scraps in a slosh bucket, ‘sancocho’, and it is someone’s job to come and collect it every few days to feed the pig in which they have a stake.  Usually, family members will buy a piglet amongst themselves and feed it all year round ready for Christmas or New Year celebrations.  

Christmas in Trinidad, Cuba with the family usually means a family meal on Christmas Eve.  As they are not very religious, Christmas Day is just like any other day, but New Year’s Eve is when the party begins, it’s a day-long fiesta!!!!  

Draught Beer in Cuba

My New Year’s Eve experience in Trinidad, I arrived to find that the family had hired a beer pump with easy access to refreshing cold beer all day long, and the family pig roasting slowly in the garden.  People from the neighbourhood & friends passing by all day long with warm wishes, and a quick drink to toast in the new-year; it was like Piccadilly Circus!

Then the family would arrive and the feast would begin, by which time I was already feeling merry, and full from picking at food all-day long.  There’s only so much beer I can take, so I crack open a bottle of rum and the dancing begins into the early hours of the new-year.  

Feliz Año Nuevo, amigos mios, I will miss you this year!

Typical Cuban Meal Fiestas

New Year Celebrations Trinidad, Cuba 2006

CUBA VOLTAGES

What type of power converter should I take to Cuba?

The voltage in most Casa Particulares in Cuba is 110V, but you may find that they have a secret outlet, connected to an air-con machine somewhere in the house which is 220V.

Don't ask me how this works, I don't even understand it myself, but one time I had trouble charging an i-pod, it wouldn't charge in the socket in the bedroom, where I have charged countless numbers of mobile phones or cameras.  How can this be?  Just when you think you know how things work in Cuba, something comes along to test you.

I took it to my family, and Gustavo unplugged the air-con unit in the bedroom and stuck the i-pod charger in it, and hey, it worked!  Off course he tried to explain about voltages and the reason it wouldn't work in the other sockets in the house, but I had to admit, I couldn't get my head round it.  I was just happy it worked.

I've always been the kind of person that has tried to work things out on my own, refusing to ask for help.  But if there is one thing I have learned during my travels, especially in Cuba, if you don't know, ask, it's definitely the best policy.

In any case, coming from the UK or Central America, I usually take both a 2 pin flat head and a 2 pin round head adaptor and that usually works for most chargers that are coming from the UK.  I take both as you never know, but mostly I have used the 2 pin flat head adaptor in most Casas in Cuba.

Check out this information on Tripadvisor, but remember it mostly refers to hotel rooms and not Casa Particulares.

EXPLORING LA HABANA

La Habana is a fascinating place and the best way to get to know the city, the people, the culture, the do’s & don’ts is to have someone show you around and answer all your questions.  We can recommend an excellent local guide that can walk you around la Habana and charm you with all the splendours that it has to offer.  A typical itinerary includes visits to:

• The 4 most important Plazas of la Habana; de La Catedral, de Armas, Vieja, de San Francisco and it's surrounding areas
• Capitolio
• Parque Central
• Paseo del Prado
• La Avenida del Puerto
• Calle Obispo
• Malecón Habanero
• Avenidas Monserrate y Zulueta

The guide will also walk you around some non-touristy areas of la Habana, talk to you about the most common scams of Cuba and how to avoid them etc, this will give you a good starting point and make your stay all the more enjoyable.   Contact us for more details.

Capitolio & la Habana Vieja

MUSIC LESSONS IN CUBA

Are you a secret musician dieing to let your creativity burst free? Cuba is the perfect place to explore your musical talent. Come to Trinidad, Cuba and learn to play the Tumbadora (Congos), Maracas, Guiro, Clave, Chequere or the Bongo with David López Garabito.

David is truly talented, he has a wonderful gift which he loves to share with others. His talent has been noticed by others, so much so, that he has been invited to Canada on numerous occassions to give concerts and teach Cuban music.

Don´t miss out on the opportunity to learn from this Master Percussionist, experience true Cuban musical culture with a professional musician dedicated to giving you an experience you will cherish forever.

IS TRINIDAD BY THE BEACH?

Being close to the beach, well about 10km, was one of the reasons I chose to study Spanish in Trinidad, Cuba.  When I set foot on Playa Ancon beach for the first time, I couldn’t believe my eyes.  My checklist for an ideal beach was pretty much covered:

• gorgeous aquamarine waters
• perfect temperature - warm enough for me to bathe in (me and cold water do not agree)
• crystal clear – excellent, that way I can see if anything is coming to bite me
• soft white sand – feels good on the feet and looks good enough to eat (like vanilla ice-cream)
• a beach bar – food & drink is always essential
• trees on the beach – having shade is always a bonus
• sun-beds & umbrellas – for those who don’t mind paying a little extra for some additional comfort

It’s easy enough to get from Trinidad to Playa Ancon, hop on the tourist Trinibus or try and share the taxi fare with someone.  The Trinibus is a hop-on-hop off service but the final dropping off point is beside the Hotel Playa Ancon.  There are a couple of hotels on the beach, but don’t let that put you off, you still have pretty much 4km of beautiful beach to yourself, especially if you take a stroll away from the hotels, but then you might not find so much shade.

http://www.experiencetherealcuba.com/trinidad-2/beach

RANDOM CASA PARTICULAR INSPECTIONS

“Quick, quick, hide!!!!!”, my casa’s 8 year old daughter came running over to me while I was sweeping the leaves from the mango and advocado trees in the back garden, still in my pyjamas. “Where?”, I think out aloud and we both look towards the tiny outdoor bathroom used by the family. So in I get and lock the door behind me from the inside. It’s probably the first time I have had a good look at their bathroom, and it’s tiny and less flashy in comparison to the one used by the tourists inside the house.

I had no clue what was actually going on, but I had an idea that it could be a random house inspection. They are always a threat to a casa particular in Cuba. Whilst hiding in the bathroom, starting to feel a little claustrophobic, my casa’s father is at the door, talking to the Inspectors, he invites them in, he has the gift of the gab, and is always the joker, but he has no clue where I am or that his family were sneaking around the house trying to hide my belongings; my backpack was being thrown out the bedroom window by one of his 8 year old twins, whilst the other one carries it across the garden and over the wall. His wife is in the bedroom, throwing the washing over the bed and is calmly re-folding the clothes when the Inspector and her husband walk by. The Inspector didn’t even bat an eye-lid!

Luckily I hadn’t unpacked my stuff totally, probably conscious that I was actually staying in the casa particular illegally. Amidst the madness they receive a telephone call from the UK, it is my mother asking to speak to me, she is told to call back in 10 minutes without giving an explanation as to where I actually am.

After what felt like an eternity, the Inspector leaves without finding me and they come rescue me from my hiding place in the bathroom. Everyone laughs in relief and makes a joke but we are all shaken, it was a close shave. These random monthly inspections send everyone nerves all over the place, more so that particular month than others as I am staying in their casa particular illegally.

Casa particulars in Cuba have a license to rent a room to tourists and they are required to pay a monthly fee of approx. $200 CUC, depending on how many rooms they rent out and the location of the casa particular. During the low season, some casa particulars take a 3 month reprieve from having a tourist license and switch to having a license to rent out rooms to Cuban tourists only. The monthly fee is considerably less, however foreign tourists are not permitted to stay in these casa particulars.

However, this coincided with one of my visits and being a member of the family now, they still welcomed me into their home, in fact they would have been hurt if I didn’t stay with them, even if it was a bit risky. But off course the problem now is in our eyes I’m no longer a tourist, I’m their long lost cousin!!!!! Regardless of that, I was still illegal in their casa particular.

June 2009