EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA

Friday, 1 March 2013

WHERE TO DRINK A DELICIOUS COFFEE IN TRINIDAD CUBA

CAFE DON PEPE - TRINIDAD, CUBA

It has become our custom to escape the kitchen sink at least a couple of times during my visits, so we can wonder around the cobbled streets of Trinidad and enjoy this beautiful colonial town (now a firm member of the family I too take part in some of the cooking and cleaning activities when I am in Trinidad). We like to look our best, so we dress up a little and then we head out, stopping now and then to gossip in the street with other 'Trinitarios'. We visit one of the museums that Trinidad has to offer and then sit and have a heart to heart. We always seem to have a lot of catching up to do, no matter how long it has been since we last saw each other.

Over the years we have regularly gone to what is now known as 'our bar', but as we were re-exploring the streets of Trinidad, looking for a new restaurant in town, we came across a place that caught our eye. Instantly we were enamoured with this beautiful courtyard, curious to know what it was, never having seen it before.

Upon entering the place we were instantly hit by the luscious green garden, with lots of tall trees providing welcome shade, plants and flowers dotted around, tables and chairs inviting you in to take a break, it was like a mini heaven, 'I would love to have a place like this' I sighed. Then I noticed how tastefully decorated it was, antiques, coffee pots, brewing instruments etc hanging on the walls. We were both seduced by its gorgeousness and decided not to go to 'our place'; time for a change of scenery.

We sit down at one of the beautifully carved wooden tables and admire the menu and the gardens simultaneously. It has an extensive menu, coffee made in a variety of ways, both hot and cold, with or without alcohol. The coffee is grown locally at a farm in the Sierra de Escambray mountains, it is freshly ground in the bar and the bar even sell bags of the aromatic Cuban coffee for you to take away.

The service is friendly, the toilets are amazingly clean and the music traditional. The music, a C.D., plays at a tasteful level, not too loud, so we can hear each other speak and actually it is a relief not to have a live band playing for once, so our ever so important heart to heart is not disturbed by a man with a cap in hand, asking for a 'propina'!

We both choose a cold coffee, with a little rum, ice-cream and cinnamon, and it is divine. The prices for the coffee drinks, around 2-5 CUC.

We both enjoyed this new little hideaway by the side of the Plaza, near the Museo Contra los Bandidos. It is ideally located but it can be easily missed, if you don't know where it is.

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Experience the Real Cuba offers Casas Particulares in Cuba as well as cultural activities and programs in Cuba supporting local Cuban private businesses.

To find out more about Casas in Cuba and our courses and programs (Spanish lessons, Dance lessons, Music lessons, Photography Experiences, Art & Pottery workshops) check out our website:

www.experiencetherealcuba.com

Café Don Pepe - Trinidad, Cuba

Café Don Pepe Bar - Trinidad, Cuba

Antiques on the wall, Trinidad, Cuba

Luscious Gardens, Café Don Pepe

Enjoying a chat and a coffee

Tuesday, 29 January 2013

HOW TO GET A RICH EXPERIENCE AND WONDERFUL INSIGHT INTO CUBAN LIFE

MISSING CUBA

Snow here in Wales and I am missing Cuba - the sun, the dancing, friendly people everywhere, and especially everyone at Experience the Real Cuba. Gustavo, Misleydis and all the family were so welcoming and helpful, wonderful food, joking and very interesting conversations and insights - wish I could have understood and communicated better! The en suite room was comfortable and the roof terrace lovely to relax in the shade of huge avocado trees.

I spent a month there with Spanish and salsa classes and both were excellent. Juani and Yordani were great teachers and really friendly and fun as well. I learnt so much! In Spanish I went from near beginner to discussing politics and writing my own fairy tale. In salsa I mastered lots of really nice sequences and turns and Yordani also made sure I got out dancing in the evenings, when I was there on my own and feeling a bit shy. All the family and people involved in Experience the Real Cuba went that extra mile to make sure the experience was really good - it is more than just 'a business' and a fascinating way of seeing Cuban life. I thoroughly recommend it.

And Rena, you were so helpful and thorough in all the planning stages for my trip - thank you so much. It was your personal touch and good organisation that made me choose Experience the Real Cuba and I am so glad I did. It was a really rich experience and wonderful insight into Cuban life. I miss you all!

Barbara

Thank you very much Barbara for your amazing review.

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Saturday, 26 January 2013

SHOULD I GO TO TRINIDAD CULTURAL WEEK?

CULTURA EN TRINIDAD

499 años de fundación de la villa La santísima Trinidad

A pesar de que este año se ahorraron recursos para celebrar en grande los próximos 500 años de la ciudad, con mis expectativas bien bajas me fui a la calle, ¡esta ciudad me sorprendió!, arte por doquier, música, pintura, artesanos de la Habana, Cienfuegos, Santa Clara se acercan a la añeja villa para vender sus variados artículos, zapatos, ropas, bisutería hechos a mano por experimentados artistas, animando a los oriundos a comprar sus bellezas. Eventos que atraen a la juventud y a los no tan jóvenes, body art, música rock, en el patio de la casa de la cultura y en su plazoleta ensayos para lo que será en la noche el espectáculo afrocubano, en la plaza cultural música de los años 60/70 y en la calle Borrel Reggaeton y Salsa para los mas jóvenes, comida, piña colada, cerveza, una gran fiesta!!!

Otrora villa que abre sus brazos a Foráneos de todas partes de Cuba y del mundo, que vienen a disfrutar de esta semana cultural, mezclando las palmeras de las playas con la salsa y espectáculos nocturnos, noble, vieja y hermosa ciudad que no discrimina en raza, color, ni sexo; para ella, todos son bienvenidos. Disfrutemos entonces de sus bondades y cuidémosla para que nos reciba majestuosa y orgullosa otros 500 años más.

Enero 2013

CULTURE IN TRINIDAD

499 years of the founding of the town's Holy Trinity

Although resources were saved this year in order to have a big party to celebrate the 500^th anniversary of the city, with my rather low expectations, I ventured out into the streets, and the city surprised me! Art everywhere, music, painting, artisans from Havana, Cienfuegos, Santa Clara came to this old town to sell their various items; shoes, clothes, handmade jewellery by experienced artists, encouraging the natives to buy their beauties. Events that attract young and the not so young; body art, rock music, in the courtyard of the Casa de la Cultura and in its square rehearsals for the evenings events; Afro-Cuban music, in the cultural square 60s/70s music and in Borrel Street, Reggaeton and Salsa for the young; food, piña coladas, beer, a great party!

A former village that opens its arms to outsiders from all over Cuba and the world, who come to enjoy this cultural week, mixing the palm trees on the beaches with Salsa and evening shows. This noble, old and beautiful city does not discriminate against race, colour, or even gender, everyone is welcome. So let’s enjoy all of its marvels and take care of our beautiful city so that it can continue to serve us majestically and proudly for another 500 years.

January 2013

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Sunday, 20 January 2013

IS BODY ART BIG IN CUBA?

BODY ART TRINIDAD 2013

Hoy estuve en lo de Body Art, con la música rock muy fuerte y la calle del Casco Histórico tiene mucha vida, hay buen ambiente. Esta noche tenemos un grupo que toca salsa de La Habana, “Alexander Abreu y Habana de primera” comienzan a las 12 de la noche, y en el cine/teatro estará para los niños Pentaklaos Habana, payasos, magos, malabaristas, para hacer reír.

Mañana son las premiaciones para el mejor tatuaje, hoy es la conferencia a las 2 de la tarde y un sorteo para un tatuaje gratis hecho por Francisco (uno de los mejores tatuadores) que también es jurado. Los nombres de los artistas:

Livan, Carlos, Adrian, Guillermo, Yilber, Jose Francisco, Yoel, Victor, Odelky, David, Gabriel.

18 de enero 2013

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BODY ART TRINIDAD 2013

Today I went to the Body Art exhibition, rock music playing loudly, the historical centre was is full of life and an electrifying atmosphere. Tonight there is a group from Havana playing salsa, "Alexander Abreu y Habana de primera ", they begin at 12pm, and at the cinema there is a children’s show, Pentaklaos Habana, with clowns, magicians, jugglers, lots of fun, to make people laugh.

Tomorrow are the awards for the best tattoo. Today at 2 pm there will be a draw for a free tattoo by Francisco (one of the best tattoo artists), who is also a judge. The names of the artists are:

Livan Carlos Adrian, Guillermo, Yilber, Jose Francisco, Yoel, Victor, Odelky, David, Gabriel.

18th January 2013

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Ranses y Michel ...Los chicos organisadores del evento - Trinidad, Cuba

Tienes sueño? Pues a me me duele carajo.....

Tierno y comico como Chaplin...

Exotica dama...

Sin comentarios....

Marilyn te amo, aunque me dueles hasta en la piel....

Me encanta el pescao y las mujeres....

Mi mas tierna fotografía...Mami te dolio?

Trinidad en mi piel.....

Soy el terror de tus noches...jajajaajaj....muerete

Cargo la muerte a mis espaldas....

Artista de tatuaje

Ni el lobo de crespusculo (Jacob) se compara conmigo

Oye socio, no tienes anestesia pa mi?

Si, si, si lo de internet me cuadra....

Sunday, 23 December 2012

WHY CUBA?

I arrive into Cuba, late in the afternoon, on a rainy November winter’s day with heavy clouds up above. This must be my 13th time in Cuba, but I feel a bit apprehensive, maybe because I haven’t been back for over 1 year and a half. A year and a half might not seem that long, but it feels like an eternity for me. Since meeting the family in 2006 I had been back quite regularly, but then I was based in Central America, only an hour or so by plane and a couple of hundred dollars air-fare. Things have changed; I moved to Uruguay, friends in Havana were absent, now living in other countries, new acquaintances made over the internet; I was about to meet in person for the first time.

I was staying in a Casa in Havana Centro, as per usual the streets were bustling with people going about their daily business. As I made my way down Calle Neptuno towards Prado, weaving myself around other people, avoiding the puddles on the street and dodging oncoming traffic, I noticed that there were more street vendors selling fruit ‘n’ veg. and new privately owned businesses popping up all over the city. It wasn’t my first winter in Cuba but somehow Havana looked grey to me for probably the first time, which took me by surprise. Even with all its complications and issues, I had always viewed Cuba through my own personal set of rose coloured glasses and I wondered to myself ‘has the magical spell cast over me by Cuba been broken?’

When I think of Cuba I always think of my friends in Trinidad, spending time with the family, strolling around the streets of Trinidad, nights out at Casa de la Trova, and undoubtedly lovely sunny days, so I was keen to get the next possible transfer out of the city. It was after 6pm when I got to the Cubatur bureau at Hotel Inglaterra and I wasn’t pleased when I was abruptly told that the Transtur was fully booked. That’s never happened before!

If there is one thing I have learned from my experiences in Cuba, it’s that if you need something done always ask your casa, they always seem to know a man that can. So I phoned my friend in Trinidad and asked if she knew of any transfers returning to Trinidad the following day, she said she would find out. Convinced I would be on the 8am Viazul bus to Trinidad, I started to make the necessary arrangements for the following day. However, after my shower there was a knock on my door. ‘Was it a telephone call for me?’ My friend must have worked her magic, it was Roberto, ‘Who is Roberto? How did he get my number?’ He offers me a ride to Trinidad the next day, leaving at 4.30am. ‘Que, what time?????’ It didn’t take me long to decide, when I realised I would be in Trinidad by breakfast time, I jumped at the chance to avoid the freezing cold Viazul bus and take the ride to Trinidad. I couldn’t have planned it better, even if I had tried, somehow whenever I am in Cuba everything eventually falls into place!

After my various telephone conversations that evening, I start to think, ‘how curious, who is this Roberto and why is he travelling to Trinidad so early in the morning?’ The next morning, waiting by the door unsure of what to expect, apart from a white Jeep, I finally meet Roberto, he is a journalist travelling to Trinidad for work. It turns out to be an interesting journey, intellectual conversations at the crack of dawn, how he ended up in Cuba and I in Uruguay. It never fails to impress me, the people I meet in Cuba always fascinate me and I remember this is one of the reasons why I am drawn to Cuba and what makes each of my experiences so unique.

As the sun started to emerge our conversation was momentarily cast aside. I noticed the mist hovering at ground level in the fields and then the sun appeared in the horizon and rose over the carretera and it reminded me, que lindo es Cuba!

As we approached Trinidad, the same feeling of joy that I always feel at this point of the journey wells up inside me. We arrived into Trinidad safe and sound by 8.30am and I realised that the spell hadn’t been broken, I was finally in Trinidad. The door to the Casa appeared to be closed but it was on the hook and was left open in anticipation for my arrival. It seemed very quiet inside but I walked into the house as if I belonged, Fortuna the family dog, was the first to greet me, followed by the children and then my gorgeous friends, Misleydis & Gustavo.

I realise this is why I always long to return to Cuba; to see my amazing friends in Trinidad. It feels like home to me. I look forward to making my first trip out onto the streets of Trinidad, having a cerveza with my friend in our favourite little hide-away, listening to Cuban music, long chats with old friends, discovering changes, having new and unique experiences and greeting people on the street as if I never left.

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Sunday, 16 December 2012

ARE BODY TATTOOS POPULAR IN CUBA?

Studio 16

The art of tattooing dates as far back as the 5th to 4th millennium BC, however Modern tattooing began in the 16th to 18th century when sailors came into contact with Polynesian tribes and brought the art back to the Western world.

Once a form of deviance, tattoos have now become part of the mainstream global fashion and revolutionised into an acceptable form of art expression.

Cuba is no exception; it too has a tattoo artist movement which is growing in many of its provinces, not least of all in Sancti Spiritus, and the town of Trinidad.

The province of Sancti Spiritus, known for its richness in cultural activities, attracts many young Artists like Ranses Oreski Marrero Consepcion. He decided to move to Trinidad and open a Art Gallery in the historical centre of Trinidad after graduating from the College of Art in Matanzas. Ranses is an Artist of Lyrical Abstract Art and is also a keen advocate of Body Art in all its forms i.e. painting, video art, performance, photography, fashion etc.

He believes that this is the right time to attract followers and lovers of the art of tattooing and has therefore created a new cultural project called “Studio 16”. He will begin by organising a cultural event related to Body Art in Trinidad, January 2013, but with the support of government and cultural institutions, proposes the organisation of concerts, video presentations, films, exhibitions and conferences across the whole of Cuba. He believes that if you do a good job of teaching the fundamentals of the art and the place it has within society and the world, it can have a positive effect on the youth of today and those of the future.

His aim is to promote the art in a positive setting as well as educate the community about the harmful habits of this art. The project will contribute to the spiritual and educational enrichment of the community and thus change the way society views individuals who choose tattoo art; so they are no longer seen as a marginal group of society.

The event will take place 17th – 19th January 2013 in Trinidad, Cuba and will stage the following cultural activities:

• Creative Workshops – the appreciation of tattoo art both at an artistic and educational level

• Theatrical Performances – presentation of visual and audio samples relating to body art

• Visual Arts – an exhibition from local Artists

• Competition – a display of tattoo Artists demonstrating their talent and ability

• Catwalk – a visual show of body art designed by various Artists

• Music – a Rock concert to celebrate the end of the event

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Thursday, 6 December 2012

FIART IN CUBA

FIART 2012

The 16th Feria Internacional de Arte (FIART) 2012 (International Fair of Craftsmanship) with the slogan Art, Usefulness & Skill takes place between the 7th & 23rd December in Havana, Cuba.

This year the Fair will be dedicated to Ciego de Ávila province. It is aimed at encouraging the exchange among the countries of the Bolivarian Alliance (ALBA).

Over the years, the family Santander have received many awards at FIART. In 2007, UNESCO awarded the family with a special prize in honour of their special family tradition; the master craftsman.

On my recent visit to La Casa del Alfarero (Santander) they showed me some items that they were planning to send to FIART.

The family Santander also offer workshops to budding pottery enthusiasts.

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Sunday, 23 September 2012

TAKING THE BUSES (GUAGUA) IN HAVANA

OUR TRIP TO HAVANA

Today, sat in my garden, drinking a freshly made, hot coffee, I remember my days in Havana. An enormous city! I am used to my town, where everything is relatively close by, I had an idea that it was immense, but the reality almost always surpasses the imagination.

Havana’s buses!!!!....I had heard so many stories, mostly of theft and of the quantity of people that travel on them, I dreaded the idea of riding on one. But I had to get on this type of transport if I wanted to arrive at each of the places the children wanted to visit in good time, I must confess that I clung onto my bag with dear life! How silly! After a few days of having seen my friend, now used to living in Havana for more than 5 years, capable of sleeping on the bus whilst a young man is singing in the centre of the bus and at the other extreme, a man asking for money so he can have something to eat, and others shouting at a passerby walking down the street, I realised that my fears were exaggerated.

On one occasion, after running half a block we managed to catch the bus and in my effort to raise the children onto the bus, then myself with my bag glued to my chest, I didn’t realise that I pushed into a woman. She rapidly and angrily said to me ‘hey, we are people, not animals, don’t push me!’ Off course I apologised and replied ‘Honey, if you don’t want to get pushed around, then take a taxi!’. This lady kept talking, but I was not listening, I was surprised with my reaction, I had only been there for 3 days and already I was just as stressed as any other ordinary Havanero, that has to take the bus each and every morning and afternoon for work. So I looked at my husband and we smiled at each other. Only at this moment could I understand just how difficult it is for these people to go backwards and forwards on the buses on a daily basis.

I was only on holiday, which I enjoyed very much and most of all I didn’t lose anything, I only won, I got to know another way of life for us Cubans. Respect to them! This city is over populated, with its diversity of races and religions that make Havana a wonderfully quirky and awesome city. And now from the comfort of my home I can remember fondly of these experiences and continue to be grateful for living in a city as beautiful, quiet and safe as Trinidad.

Cuba is beautiful in its entirety, but nothing like I have here with the mixture of gulls and mockingbirds, I'm near the sea and the mountains and most of all I DO NOT need buses.

Anonymous

Hoy, sentada en mi jardín, tomando un café caliente y recién hecho, recuerdo mis días en la Habana. Una ciudad enorme! Yo, acostumbrada a mi pueblo donde todo está relativamente cerca, tenía una idea de su inmensidad, pero la realidad casi siempre supera la imaginación.

¡Las guaguas de la habana!!!... Había escuchado tantas historias, sobre todo de robos y la cantidad de personas que entraban en ellas, que me aterraba la idea de montar en una. Pero tuve que acudir a ese tipo de transporte si quería llegar en tiempo a los sitios que los niños querían visitar, confieso que me aferraba al bolso como a mi propia vida, !que tonta!

Después de varios días y ver como mi amiga que a vivido en la capital por mas de cinco años, es capas de quedarse dormida mientras en el centro de la guagua cantaba un chico y en el otro extremo un señor pedía algo de dinero para comer, y otros le gritaban a un transeúnte que caminaba por la acera, me di cuenta que mis temores eran exagerados. En una ocasión después de correr media cuadra logramos coger una y en mi esfuerzo por subir a los niños y luego yo, con mí bolso pegado a mi pecho, no me di cuenta y empujé a una mujer, esta rápidamente me dice muy enfadada “ oiga aquí hay personas, no animales, no me empuje” Yo claro pedí disculpas y dije “cariño, si no quieres que te empujen toma un taxi” esta señora siguió hablando, pero yo ya no la escuchaba, me quede sorprendida con mi reacción, solo llevaba tres días allí y ya estaba tan estresada como cualquier habanero de a pie, de los que tienen que coger guaguas cada mañana y cada tarde para el trabajo, entonces miré a mi esposo y sonreímos, solo en ese momento comprendí lo difícil que se hacía para estas personas el diario ir y venir, Yo, yo solo estaba de vacaciones, las que disfruté muchísimo y sobre todo, no perdí nada, solo gané, púes conocí otra forma de vida de nosotros los cubanos ¡mis respetos para ellos!

Esta ciudad está sobre poblada, su diversidad de rasas y religión hacen de la Habana una urbe peculiar y maravillosamente increíble y en la distancia, ahora desde la tranquilidad de mi casa, solo recuerdo con cariño esas vivencias y sigo agradeciendo el vivir en una ciudad tan hermosa, tranquila y segura como Trinidad.

Cuba es bella en su totalidad, pero nada como la mezcla que tengo aquí de gaviotas y sinsontes, estoy cerca del mar y del monte y sobre todo NO necesito guaguas.

Anonimo

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Tuesday, 18 September 2012

COMMENTS | EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA

Katie and Fi spent a couple of week with us, Experience The Real Cuba, in Trinidad, Learning Spanish in Cuba, living in a Casa Particular and having Salsa lessons. If you are unsure about whether to come to Trinidad or if you are curious to see whether they enjoyed their experience in Cuba, check out Katie's comments. Hopefully this will make up your mind.

Thanks to Katie for sharing with us her experience in Cuba.

COMMENTS | EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA

Katie and Fi having a ball in Trinidad, Cuba

Sunday, 9 September 2012

IS CUBA SAFE?

I often get asked this question, especially from the parents of students about to go to Cuba and in my opinion it is the safest country I have ever visited.

Before going to Cuba I had this vision that crime was ubiquitous in Cuba, I’m not sure where I got this idea from, but I have noticed that many people, before knowing Cuba, think the same.

Upon arriving into Cuba for the first time, I felt nervous, but I soon realised that I didn’t need to be. Walking the streets of Cuba, you obviously feel disorientated, but as soon as you get used to your surroundings, you couldn’t feel safer. All you have to do is sit down on a park bench, people watch and you will discover how fascinating it is. If you’re lucky someone will join you on the park bench and before long you are comparing stories and putting the world to rights.

Cubans are not very aggressive; they are generally a happy go lucky bunch, you don’t find gangs of youths with a menacing presence, instead they are listening to music, laughing and joking or paying a compliment (piropo) to whomever walks by. It’s not a violent country; no-one has access to guns or other lethal weapons.

Saying that, as with any place in the world, you should always be street wise and be aware of your surroundings. I’m not a woman with many material possessions, but what little I do have, I don’t like to flaunt it. I often go to Cuba with as little as possible so I can at least try and blend in with the crowd.

I have heard of other people losing belongings, for example, I met a Dutch girl who lost her mobile phone on the overnight Viazul bus from Santiago de Cuba to Trinidad. We were all sleeping, it was very dark, but I remember this girl leaving her bag wide open on the floor in the gangway, obviously not a wise thing to do in any country.

Another guy I met, told me that he was out late at night in Havana, completely pissed, on his own, walking the streets, when he got mugged by a group of youngsters. For some reason he had all his worldly possessions on him; his mobile phone, his passport, all his travellers’ cheques, cash, credit cards, camera etc. They weren’t violent but they took advantage of his drunkenness and helped themselves. He was so pissed he was unable to stop them.

There is no need to go out at night with all your worldly possessions, leave it in your hotel or casa particular, it is far safer there. All you need is some cash for the evening and a copy of your passport, why do you need to be bogged down with anything else for a night out on the town!

EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Experience the Real Cuba offers Casas Particulares in Cuba as well as cultural activities and programs in Cuba supporting local Cuban private businesses.

To find out more about Casas in Cuba and our courses and programs (Spanish lessons, Dance lessons, Music lessons, Photography Experiences, Art & Pottery workshops) check out our website:

www.experiencetherealcuba.com