Sunday, 23 September 2012

TAKING THE BUSES (GUAGUA) IN HAVANA


OUR TRIP TO HAVANA

Today, sat in my garden, drinking a freshly made, hot coffee, I remember my days in Havana.  An enormous city!  I am used to my town, where everything is relatively close by, I had an idea that it was immense, but the reality almost always surpasses the imagination.

Havana’s buses!!!!....I had heard so many stories, mostly of theft and of the quantity of people that travel on them, I dreaded the idea of riding on one.  But I had to get on this type of transport if I wanted to arrive at each of the places the children wanted to visit in good time, I must confess that I clung onto my bag with dear life!  How silly!  After a few days of having seen my friend, now used to living in Havana for more than 5 years, capable of sleeping on the bus whilst a young man is singing in the centre of the bus and at the other extreme, a man asking for money so he can have something to eat, and others shouting at a passerby walking down the street, I realised that my fears were exaggerated.  

On one occasion, after running half a block we managed to catch the bus and in my effort to raise the children onto the bus, then myself with my bag glued to my chest, I didn’t realise that I pushed into a woman.  She rapidly and angrily said to me ‘hey, we are people, not animals, don’t push me!’  Off course I apologised and replied ‘Honey, if you don’t want to get pushed around, then take a taxi!’.  This lady kept talking, but I was not listening, I was surprised with my reaction, I had only been there for 3 days and already I was just as stressed as any other ordinary Havanero, that has to take the bus each and every morning and afternoon for work.  So I looked at my husband and we smiled at each other.  Only at this moment could I understand just how difficult it is for these people to go backwards and forwards on the buses on a daily basis.

I was only on holiday, which I enjoyed very much and most of all I didn’t lose anything, I only won, I got to know another way of life for us Cubans.  Respect to them!  This city is over populated, with its diversity of races and religions that make Havana a wonderfully quirky and awesome city.  And now from the comfort of my home I can remember fondly of these experiences and continue to be grateful for living in a city as beautiful, quiet and safe as Trinidad.

Cuba is beautiful in its entirety, but nothing like I have here with the mixture of gulls and mockingbirds, I'm near the sea and the mountains and most of all I DO NOT need buses.

Anonymous

Hoy, sentada en mi jardín, tomando un café caliente y recién hecho, recuerdo mis días en la Habana. Una ciudad enorme! Yo, acostumbrada a mi pueblo donde todo está relativamente cerca, tenía una idea de su inmensidad, pero la realidad casi siempre supera la imaginación.
¡Las guaguas de la habana!!!... Había escuchado tantas historias, sobre todo de robos y la cantidad de personas que entraban en ellas, que me aterraba la idea  de montar en una. Pero tuve  que acudir a ese tipo de transporte si quería llegar en tiempo a los sitios que los niños querían visitar, confieso que me aferraba al bolso como a mi propia vida, !que tonta! 

Después de varios días y ver como mi amiga que a  vivido en la capital por mas de cinco años, es capas de quedarse dormida mientras en el centro de la guagua cantaba un chico y en el otro extremo un señor pedía algo de dinero para comer, y otros le gritaban a un transeúnte que caminaba por la acera, me di cuenta que mis temores eran exagerados. En una ocasión después de correr media cuadra logramos coger una y en mi esfuerzo por subir a los niños y luego yo, con mí bolso pegado a mi pecho, no me di cuenta y empujé a una mujer, esta rápidamente me dice  muy enfadada “ oiga aquí hay personas, no animales, no me empuje” Yo claro pedí disculpas y dije “cariño, si no quieres que te empujen toma un taxi” esta señora siguió hablando, pero yo ya no la escuchaba, me quede sorprendida con mi reacción, solo llevaba tres días allí y ya estaba tan estresada como cualquier habanero de a pie, de los que tienen que coger guaguas cada mañana y cada tarde para el trabajo, entonces miré a mi esposo y sonreímos, solo en ese momento comprendí lo difícil que se hacía para estas personas el diario ir y venir, Yo, yo solo estaba de vacaciones, las que disfruté muchísimo y sobre todo, no perdí nada, solo gané, púes conocí otra forma de vida de nosotros los cubanos ¡mis respetos para ellos!

Esta ciudad está sobre poblada, su diversidad de rasas y religión hacen de la Habana una urbe peculiar y maravillosamente increíble  y  en la distancia, ahora desde la tranquilidad de mi casa, solo  recuerdo con cariño esas vivencias y sigo agradeciendo el vivir en una ciudad tan hermosa, tranquila y segura como Trinidad.

Cuba es bella en su totalidad, pero nada como la mezcla que tengo aquí de gaviotas y sinsontes, estoy cerca del mar y del monte y sobre todo NO necesito guaguas.

Anonimo


EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES


Experience the Real Cuba offers Casas Particulares in Cuba as well as cultural activities and programs in Cuba supporting local Cuban private businesses.

To find out more about Casas in Cuba and our courses and programs (Spanish lessonsDance lessonsMusic lessonsPhotography ExperiencesArt Pottery workshops) check out our website:

www.experiencetherealcuba.com






Tuesday, 18 September 2012

COMMENTS | EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA

Katie and Fi spent a couple of week with us, Experience The Real Cuba, in Trinidad, Learning Spanish in Cuba, living in a Casa Particular and having Salsa lessons. If you are unsure about whether to come to Trinidad or if you are curious to see whether they enjoyed their experience in Cuba, check out Katie's comments.  Hopefully this will make up your mind.

Thanks to Katie for sharing with us her experience in Cuba.

COMMENTS | EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA

Katie and Fi having a ball in Trinidad, Cuba

Sunday, 9 September 2012

IS CUBA SAFE?


I often get asked this question, especially from the parents of students about to go to Cuba and in my opinion it is the safest country I have ever visited.

Before going to Cuba I had this vision that crime was ubiquitous in Cuba, I’m not sure where I got this idea from, but I have noticed that many people, before knowing Cuba, think the same.

Upon arriving into Cuba for the first time, I felt nervous, but I soon realised that I didn’t need to be.  Walking the streets of Cuba, you obviously feel disorientated, but as soon as you get used to your surroundings, you couldn’t feel safer.  All you have to do is sit down on a park bench, people watch and you will discover how fascinating it is.  If you’re lucky someone will join you on the park bench and before long you are comparing stories and putting the world to rights.

Cubans are not very aggressive; they are generally a happy go lucky bunch, you don’t find gangs of youths with a menacing presence, instead they are listening to music, laughing and joking or paying a compliment (piropo) to whomever walks by.  It’s not a violent country; no-one has access to guns or other lethal weapons.

Saying that, as with any place in the world, you should always be street wise and be aware of your surroundings.  I’m not a woman with many material possessions, but what little I do have, I don’t like to flaunt it.  I often go to Cuba with as little as possible so I can at least try and blend in with the crowd.  

I have heard of other people losing belongings, for example, I met a Dutch girl who lost her mobile phone on the overnight Viazul bus from Santiago de Cuba to Trinidad.  We were all sleeping, it was very dark, but I remember this girl leaving her bag wide open on the floor in the gangway, obviously not a wise thing to do in any country.   

Another guy I met, told me that he was out late at night in Havana, completely pissed, on his own, walking the streets, when he got mugged by a group of youngsters.  For some reason he had all his worldly possessions on him; his mobile phone, his passport, all his travellers’ cheques, cash, credit cards, camera etc.  They weren’t violent but they took advantage of his drunkenness and helped themselves.  He was so pissed he was unable to stop them.  

There is no need to go out at night with all your worldly possessions, leave it in your hotel or casa particular, it is far safer there.  All you need is some cash for the evening and a copy of your passport, why do you need to be bogged down with anything else for a night out on the town!


EXPERIENCE THE REAL CUBA – SUPPORTING CUBAN BUSINESSES

Experience the Real Cuba offers Casas Particulares in Cuba as well as cultural activities and programs in Cuba supporting local Cuban private businesses.

To find out more about Casas in Cuba and our courses and programs (Spanish lessonsDance lessonsMusic lessons, Photography ExperiencesArt Pottery workshops) check out our website:


Saturday, 25 August 2012

RAINING IN CUBA

It is raining outside, I can hear music close by, I'm not sure whether its making me feel sad or if it's the weather.
It' s coming from my neighbours, they await the arrival of their son after four months in Australia.
He got married to an older lady, but he didn't like life in that continent.
Will this always be the only way Cubans can get to travel, to know other regions?
To sacrifice so much for a dream!
This visceral love we feel for this land, it brings us back time and again, even though the sadness of seeing it in it's decline hurts us to our bones.
Cuba, beautiful island with sad eyes, torn in anguish for the missing children and the present whom have a love hate relationship, with the established uncertainty of an uncertain future.

Anonymous 

Esta lloviendo afuera.
Cerca escucho una música, que no se si me pone triste o es solo el tiempo,
Son mis vecinos, que esperan a su hijo que regresa, después de cuatro meses de Australia,
Se casó con una señora mayor que el, pero no le gustó mucho la vida en ese continente,
¿Será esta siempre la única posibilidad para los cubanos de viajar, de conocer otras latitudes?
¡Sacrificar tanto por un sueño!
Este amor visceral que sentimos por esta tierra, nos hace volver una y otra ves a ella, aunque la tristeza de verla en su decadencia nos duele hasta los huesos.
CUBA, hermosa isla de ojos tristes que se desgarra de angustia por los hijos ausentes y los presentes con esos encontrados sentimiento de amor y odio, y  con  la ya establecida incertidumbre de un futuro incierto.

Anonimo

Saturday, 21 July 2012

CUBAN PICNIC


My friend ever the optimist and not fully familiar with life in Cuba suggested we have a picnic in our room in the Casa in Caibarien.  We had spent the day driving to Cayo Santa Maria, walking along the wild, wind swept beaches taking photographs.  It wasn’t a typical hot day on a Cuban beach, it was more like a winter’s day in the UK; grey, gloomy and windy.

We had already been out to the only restaurant we could find in town the night before and my friend was a little tired of Cuban food.  Being a Muslim, she doesn’t eat pork, she didn’t realise that this would rule out most options on most Cuban menus.  As a creative cook herself, she was forever looking for the spice.  However, on this day we felt like a cozy picnic style spread just for two.

We went in search of a supermarket to see what we could find.  Number one on our list was bread, but this proved to be a challenge in itself.  “How hard can it be to find a loaf of bread or some bread rolls?”  Well, this is Cuba, I had to remind her.  After spending 1 month in Trinidad, I could honestly say that I had never seen bread in the shops and there certainly weren’t any Bakeries in town.  I remember walking up and down the road of my Casa Particular on the way to my Spanish lessons and smelling the aroma of freshly baked bread, but the bread being baked wasn’t for sale.  It was a government run Bakery where bread was being baked for rations.

It was difficult for her to comprehend.  How can there be no Bakeries?  This was in December 2006 before private enterprises were being encouraged.  Refusing to believe there was no bread, she insisted that we continue driving around the poorly lit streets of Caibarien.  Finally we stumbled across a Bakery, we couldn’t believe our luck, we were a little excited so we boldly entered the Bakery as if we had the right to walk in and purchase a loaf of bread.  All eyes were on us for a split second, two strange girls completely out of place and then everyone continued to work and pretended we didn’t exist.  Off course, she didn’t speak any Spanish so I had to be the one to ask, so I sheepishly went up to the counter and asked if we could have one of the baguettes he had in his hands; the delicious aroma wafting around us.  He stopped what he was doing, he looked around him, maybe he was looking for moral support from his co-workers, and finally he handed me one of the baguettes and he continued to work.  A little bewildered, I asked him how much he wanted for the bread, ready to be overcharged as I was obviously a tourist.  But he looked at me and said he didn’t want any money.  Now I was surprised, I asked if he was sure and he just smiled and waved me off and told me to enjoy the bread. We got the feeling they just wanted us to get rid of us.

It was like finding the jewels in a treasure hunt.  We were so pleased with ourselves, not only did we find some bread, we even got it for free!  It was the highlight of our day, we couldn’t stop giggling like a couple of exited teenagers.


Friday, 15 June 2012

TRINIDAD CARNIVAL CUBA VIDEO II



The Carnival in Trinidad, Cuba usually takes place at the end of June. This year the 'Fiestas San Juaneras' takes place between 23-27 June (2012).

Saturday, 2 June 2012

TRINIDAD CARNIVAL CUBA


Trinidad Carnival Cuba


I’m excited by the fact that my trip to Cuba has coincided with the Trinidad Carnival. Trinidad is always alive with music, but I have never experienced the Carnival and I was looking forward to sharing it with the family.  

The Warm-Up Trinidad Carnival Cuba
I’m at the bank and I can hear music being played outside so I go out to see what’s happening and there is some kind of band procession, with a flow of people following the musicians.  It’s like a prelude to the carnival celebrations, a refreshing welcome to open everyone’s appetite, a reminder of what carnival entails or an announcement of what’s to come.  People stop what they’re doing and watch the musicians pass by and join the back of the procession, following it to Parque Cespedes, where the band continue to play a little while longer.

Around the square there is a buzz in the atmosphere.  José Martí has been transformed from an ordinary street to a place dedicated to fun and festivity.  I walk several blocks and I am amazed with the transformation, there are street vendors, food stalls, beer vans, activities for the kids.  

Once the afternoon sun has cooled down a little, we all put on our favourite outfits and go out to join the carnival fun, which is a family affair.  The streets are crowded with families, all looking their best.  Ladies with their hair and nails done, men wearing their smartest jeans and t-shirts with extravagant designs.  

Trinidad Carnival Cuba
Pipa de Cerveza - Beer Van
We try to explore the different stalls, the children are excited as their eyes bulge at all the goodies on offer.  Every few steps we bump into friends or family and we have a little chat and catch up on the local gossip.  My mind begins to wander and I lose focus on the conversation being held.  I can´t help but stare around me at the harmless fun being had by all.  Just like the kids, I eye up the food on offer and am keen to try what looks like chicken kebab sticks.  I am amazed at the beer van, people queuing impatiently holding all kinds of empty bottles / plastic containers of various shapes and sizes.  It looks like you can fill any container for 1 Cuban Peso (CUP), not a bad deal and people are making the most of it.

Tractor Trinidad Carnival Cuba
Later on that evening I go out alone and find one of the guys from Casa de la Trova.  We head to the sports stadium slightly out of town where a Salsa Band from Havana are playing live.  I´m so glad I bumped into my friend as I had no idea that this event was happening.  There was no entrance fee but there were tractors pulling beer vans into the arena, more cheap beer!  

We got our cheap beer and found our spot and it didn´t take long for people to find us.  All the guys that usually hang out at Casa de la Trova, come wondering by.  We all share the beer, taking swigs from the same bottle without a care in the world, we dance, we have fun, and it feels good to be part of this small community, even if I´m not a permanent member.  

Carnival in Trinidad, Cuba usually takes place at the end of June.
(In 2012, it will take place between 23-27 June)


Street Food Trinidad Carnival Cuba


Youtube Video Trinidad Carnival Cuba

Tuesday, 15 May 2012

CUBAN VOICES


I like my town it´s quiet and smells good. In my yard I can listen to the birds singing and the sound of the wind rustling through the leaves of the trees, and if I try a little, I can hear the waves of the ocean in the distance.  Here I have peace and my children are happy, they are not aware of the economic situation that we have faced for a long time and, like throughout the world,that which has got worse in recent years.  I do not know what to think,I had high hopes, but now I am certain that nothing will change for Cubans who want to see the prosperity of our people.

From my point of view, the only thing the the new changes have achieved is the so called law of elasticity, where with some effort you can make some progress, stretching a a little, but then the execissive taxes only end up making you step backwards two-fold.  Leave this country??? No way!! Those who leave, are neither from there, nor here, a few forget their roots and others can´t stop thinking about them. In the end they will always be immigrants.  It would be perfect to have the freedom to travel, enter the Internet, make plans for the future, it's a shame that "paradise" for foreigners, is the cage for Cubans which I fear, one day will break.


Anonymous

Me gusta mi pueblo, es tranquilo y huele muy bien. En mi patio puedo escuchar el canto de los pájaros y el sonido que hacen los árboles con el viento y si me esfuerzo un poco, podría escuchar el mar. Aquí tengo paz y mis hijos son felices, los pequeños no tienen conciencia de la situación económica que afrontamos hace ya mucho tiempo y que se agravó en estos últimos años, como en todo el mundo. No se que pensar, tuve muchas esperanzas, pero ahora tengo la certeza que nada cambiará para los cubanos que deseamos ver la prosperidad de nuestra gente.

Desde mi punto de vista, con los nuevos cambios, solo logramos la (ley del elástico), puedes avanzar con esfuerzo, estirando un poco, pero luego retrocedes el doble, con los impuestos tan excesivos. ¿Dejar este país??? ¡Ni pensarlo!!!! Los que se van, no son ni de allá, ni de aquí, unos cuantos olvidan sus raíces y otros no dejan de pensar en ellas. Al final serán siempre emigrantes. Sería perfecto tener la libertad de viajar, de entrar al Internet, de poder hacer planes para el futuro, es una pena que “el paraíso” para extranjeros, sea la jaula de los cubanos. Que TEMO, un día se romperá.

Anonimo

Saturday, 14 April 2012

JUMPING WATERFALLS IN TRINIDAD, CUBA



Feeling hot in the city.  Get out of Trinidad for the day and enjoy the refreshing natural waterfalls that can be found around Trinidad in Cuba.

Friday, 6 April 2012

Falling for Cuba -- National Geographic Traveler

Falling for Cuba -- National Geographic Traveler

An article about el sabor de Cuba.

IMMIGRATION CUBICLES IN CUBA

Do I have to enter a cubicle at Immigration?

The immigration process in Cuba can be long and tiresome, it really depends on how many planes have landed at the same time or how many passengers there are on your plane.  

On one occasion I arrived from San Jose, Costa Rica, a flight of only a couple of hours, which for me is a dream, as from London it’s usually at least a 9 hour flight!  It was only a small plane compared to the ones that come from London, so there were fewer passengers and I sailed through customs.  I couldn’t believe it when I arrived into the immigration hall, there were no queues!  I hesitated for a second, I thought maybe the cubicles were closed, but one of the Officers assured me to just take my pick and approach any of the cubicles.

I was out of Jose Martí International Airport, Havana, in record time, about 20 minutes.  I must admit I was so pleased with myself that day.  I even considered moving to Costa Rica permanently so I could be that much closer to Cuba.  

On the other hand, I have also arrived at Havana International Airport, after a long and tiring flight, only to be faced with around 20 queues, about 15-20 people long, leading to one of those daunting army green cubicles.  All you can see is a serious looking Immigration Officer sitting inside the cubicle, examining passports and tourist cards.  Each person, relieved it’s finally their turn, but also tired from having to wait for so long, stands there nervously, waiting to be let into Cuba.  

Whilst in the queue you wonder to yourself, ‘what questions will they ask me?’, ‘will they know this is my 8th time visiting Cuba?’, ‘what is taking so bloody long?’, ‘does their system register how many times I’ve visited Cuba and for how long I’ve stayed each time?’.  I somehow doubt it, I don’t think such a sophisticated system exists in Cuba.  But who knows, maybe one day they will surprise me!


You can watch people, with sweaty patches on their back, holding layers of clothing they have had to take off as there is no air-conditioning (or if there is it’s not working very well), looking into the eye monitor when prompted, answering questions politely and finally you hear the spine-chilling buzzer.  A locked door is released and you can see them struggling to push then pull the heavy door open, wondering what will happen next.   They are probably thinking ‘can I finally set foot into Cuba?’, ‘what is waiting for me on the other side?’.  Don’t worry, it’s only Customs and the luggage hall.


So as you can see, you don’t have to step into the cubicle, the immigration process in Cuba is fairly public, as with most countries.  All eyes are on you as everyone behind you is hoping for things to move a little faster, so they can get to the front of the queue and start their holiday in Cuba.


As for questions, sometimes I have stepped up to the cubicle hoping to have a friendly conversation with the Immigration Officer, but then they have looked at me like I am crazy without saying a word and other times they have been quite pleasant.  I have been asked simple questions like, ‘is this your first time in Cuba?’, ‘Do you like Cuba?’, ‘One month is a long time, do you have friends in Cuba?’, but nothing more serious than that.


I have never been asked about money or asked to open my luggage.  I have never been asked to give specific details of my trip, like where I will be staying or what activities I will be involved with and I have never had to show any documentation of Hotel or Casa reservations.  I have sneaked in 2 laptops into Cuba in my hand luggage.  I have entered into Cuba with a suitcase full of toiletries, clothes, kitchen utensils and have left with an empty suitcase.  


You do hear scary stories about Cuban immigration, but I have visited at least 12 times and I have never had any issues.  I have gone to Cuba for 10 days, 2 weeks, 1 month, 2 months and I’ve sailed through immigration without a hitch and I hope it continues that way.  


If you are planning a trip to Cuba, just be prepared.  Don’t worry about the immigration process so much.  You don’t have to have a set itinerary and explain your every move.  They are not likely to ask, but if they do just keep it simple.  I wouldn’t worry about having printouts or documents confirming Casa reservations or Hotels.  Just relax and make sure you have the most important documents handy; a valid passport, a tourist card, proof of medical / travel insurance, but most of all, smile and learn to be patient.  


Queuing On The Streets of Cuba

Queuing at CADECA in Cuba